Shorts team peered up at the opening for a moment, then slowly put on their gear. He would grab them, thinking, Old friend! When they had swum down the canal on the other side and followed the tunnel to the misty chamber with the waterfall, it was as if theyd arrived at another beginning. The stalactites on its ceiling could only have been formed by slow drip. No info on opening hours . And that was way beyond our limit., Matt Covington, a caver from Arkansas, who says that a good caver is one who forgets how bad it really is. Photograph by Marcin Gala. Yet there was no way forward. The walls were formed by ancient breakdown piles, their boulders napped in calcite; the low ceiling was hung with stalactites. The altitude was getting to him, he told me. Gala and Short were expert at managing dive time, but in the background another clock was always ticking. The hazards of cave diving are inseparable from its seductions. In the past, Id lose twenty-five pounds on one of these trips, Stone told me. Add to compare. Found along the Paseo Claussen, this cavern known by locals as "Devil's Cave," used to hide soldiers guarding ammunition in the days of war. (If you want to see something fun, use Google Map's Street View to see what Juarez USED to look like, it was recorded in 2009). When local cavers first explored it, in 1960, they got less than three hundred feet down before the shaft levelled off into an impassable squeeze. His broad, bony shoulders werent built for these tunnels. (They met at a party where Stone overheard her talking about tactical rigging.) If an entrance wasnt too small or a tunnel too tight, the cave could be too deep to be searched by torch or candlelight. Once named the murder capital of the world, Juarez, Mexico, has seen 400 murders so far in 2022, as drug violence sweeps the troubled border city again, according to local reports. Then in 2010 Juarez became the murder capital of the world. Galas survey showed that the end of J2 lies directly below a cave entrance discovered in the early nineties. When he resurfaced on the other side, he was in a fast-flowing canal of clear water. . All these feeders connect to a trunk and then go out to an estuary. Being only a short walk from downtown El Paso, Texas, USA, Ciudad Juarez, Mexico was ready and willing to help thirsty Americans quench their thirst. Im a little concerned that youre as tired as you are after just walking down a hill, he told him. Picture after picture show smiling Matadors and members of the local Juarez baseball team - part of the Mexican League formed in 1925 - all perched in dusty frames along the side wall above small, intimate booths. Stones single-minded, almost mechanistic style can sometimes raise hackles. (They called one passage the Contusion Tubes.) Discovered in 2005, it was a side entrance to the J2 passage, an hour or so down the slope from the original entrance. When she first came to Mexico, in 2009, she would sometimes cry out in frustration, Its so uncomfortable here! Now she flitted between tents like a forest sprite, half naked in the cold, fencing with corncobs and setting traps for mice. A hairless Sphynx cat with a gang tattoo who gained international attention after being found wandering alone inside the Cereso No. The place was well known to many other dignitaries passing through as well, especially after bartender, Lorenzo "Lencho" Hernandez reportedly created what became their signature drink, the Margarita, in the 1930s. Theyd left their dry suits at the top of the falls to air out, so they had no choice but to swim across in their thermal underwear. Imagine a storm-tunnel system in a city, Stone told me. While one group is recovering on the surface, the other is shuttling provisions farther into the cave. At least four women had been killed and dumped, the authorities. Stone had tamped in some of the ingredients using an axe handle. Theyd spent most of the first month hauling gear up the mountaina muddy three-hour hike from a farmhouse in the valleyloading the heaviest items on burros and the rest on their backs. Most sumps are cloudy, tubelike passages carved by underground streams, but this one had been a dry cave not long ago. Huautla can never go as deep as Krubera, Stone said, much less the full Chev system. This is Camp Four. If theres one rule of caving, Stone told me, its that you never leave a person behind. All you find is cave. If there was an advantage to going deep, it was that the cave was fairly sterile. The fuel cells werent nearly as robust. A lot of big rocks navigating to the top of the cave but worth it. Bill Stone has led seven expeditions to Chev in the past ten years, all but one of them with Gala. If you ever make it to El Paso, do yourself a favor and steel your nerves, walk over the bridge, and have a Margarita at the Kentucky Club. Stone wasnt so sure. A cow had died in the entrance that spring. Now we were in truly dry, unexplored cave, Short told me. $100. By the thirteenth day, the escalating uncertaintythe risk of a careless stumble or a snapped limb so far from the surfacewas starting to weigh on him. All in all, the Kentucky Club wears its 96 years like a cherished piece of antique furniture - with patina and a few scars, but graceful and proud nonetheless. With its lofty chambers and limpid water, it reminded Gala of the blue holes of Florida and the caves of the Yucatn. Per adult. Then he held his breath and dove through. They stepped into their waterproof caving suits and climbing harnesses, attached special ratchets for rappelling down cliffs, and strapped on their helmets and headlamps. No other cave in the world has such proven depth (though geologists suspect that some caves in China, New Guinea, and Turkey go even deeper). Stone looked haggard and thin, his mustache drooping over sallow skin. Stones team had to establish four camps underground, each about a days hike apart. Galas voice fell soft and muffled in the mountains belly, husky with fatigue. This country could use more of it, too. The local villagers had learned to steer clear of such places. We can burn as many calories as a Tour de France rider every day underground, he says. There was more to it than that, though. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement and Your California Privacy Rights. Photograph by Kasia Biernacka, Gala had been exploring Chev with Stone so long that he could nearly navigate it blindfolded. Thousands of people died in this city as an outcome of a violent war between two rival drug gangs. Your pulse was up to one-sixty, which David tells me is pretty high. Van den Berg shook his head and insisted that he was fine. Its not the body that breaks, its the mind, he said. . I wont say that hes feeling his age, but hes realizing that he isnt at the pointy end of the stick anymore.. He stretched an arm and a leg through the opening and shimmied around, thankful again to be rid of his gear. Some people say that all this caving is just for a better taste of tea.. You have to go down a certain distance, return to the surface, then drill down a little farther, over and over, until you can go no deeper. He had the whiskered, weather-beaten look of an old lobsterman. Be brave, but not too brave.. The sump beyond it, once the dark side of the moon, now seemed comfortingly familiar. The further in you go, the more you begin to doubt and question yourself, he told me. In the end, they just picked a tunnel and hoped for the best. A decision was made to take the artifacts to the Oaxaca Regional Museum of INAH so they were not looted and to prevent further humidity damage. CIUDAD JUREZ, Mexico First, there were just a few bones and body parts, found in a valley beyond the sprawl of this wild city. They were cold, tired, and disoriented, and their air ration had nearly run out. The wind is whipping through, the waters in contact with the rock, and you can just feel the calories being sucked out. Others have succumbed to narcosis or hypoxia, fallen from cliffs or had grand-mal seizures, lost their way or lost track of time. As a result, tourism - the economic driving force of this part of city - all but dried up. Calle Pie de la Cuesta 7175, Ciudad Juarez, Chihuahua, Mexico . [13] The look and feel of this place is all East Coast, big city cocktail bar - not border city cantina. There is no glory in rushing into something like that and losing a friend. Everest was the worlds tallest peak long before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay scaled it. A statue of Manuel Lozada, considered the precursor of the agrarian reform movement in Mxico but executed as a bandit in 1873. There, in a cloud forest in the state of Oaxaca, Mexico, lay the staging area for an attempt to map the deepest cave in the worlda kind of Everest expedition turned upside down. Its my hips. Covington was a veteran of seven Stone expeditions as well as caving trips to Sumatra, Peru, and other remote formations. A torch lit adventure and water park in Riviera Maya where fun knows no limits. We were just a little overwhelmed by this dive, Gala told me. But Shackleton, despite shipwreck and starvation, never lost a man under his direct command. It feels ceremonial somehow, like the approach to an altar. Length: 6.2 mi Est. It might offer swift passage to the next shaft or lead into an endless, mud-dimmed labyrinth. This is a desert road east of Ciudad Jurez. But at one point we came to a building with a large painted window exclaiming the "World Famous Kentucky Club" and so we ducked in. You are also agreeing to our Terms of Service and Privacy Policy. You think that you know the way back only to reach a dead end, with no place to come up for air. On his first trip to Mexico, in 2001, Gala nearly died of histoplasmosis, a fungal infection acquired from the bat guano that lined the upper reaches of a nearby cave. Why not see how far it goes? The team had arrived in February, three months before the rainy season. I understood that this is the end of J2nine years of my life, of the most beautiful exploration of my life. Two months earlier, in Texas, Id watched the final preparations for the trip. But when he looked again his headlamp picked up an odd texture in the wall to his right. But, looking at all the gleaming eyes around the fire, I was mostly reminded of the Island of Lost Boys. Base camp, base camp, base camp, he said. A man convicted of taking part in the killing of three men in a shooting seven years ago inside a Jurez nightclub was sentenced Tuesday to 60 years in prison, the Chihuahua Attorney . But a single bottle of methanol and four fuel cellseach about the size of a large toastercould power the whole expedition. It took them up a short corridor, along a rising slope of terraced mustard-colored flowstone, and into a small domed chamber. Cross a ring of fire as the sun sets over the highest zip-lines in Playa del Carmen and Cancun . The three sumps higher up in this system were relatively shallow and less than five hundred feet long. Hundreds of girls and young women have disappeared in the area after coming to work at maquiladoras - small . Three or four waiters and bartenders milled about, washing glasses, exchanging stories and laughing. Exploring Chev is like drilling a very deep hole. The drug war this town saw closed many of the businesses in the cross-fire: as the tourists stayed across the border many of these businesses slowly faded away. Many Mexicans feel that their country is in the . If you've done that, or want something different, ask for a classic drink, an Old Fashioned or the like, they'll know how to make it. Best Things to Do in El Paso. This is not going to be some macho-driven bullshit, Short assured them. Las Cariosas Night Club . Bill Stone has led several trips to Chev. 33 reviews. To the other, the cavers had hung a giant blue tarp, sheltering a long plywood table, stacks of provisions, and a pair of two-burner camp stoves. The caves in Oaxaca Mexico are among some of the deepest in the world. Yet they kept moving forward. Chev has what cavers call a Hollywood entrance: a gaping maw in the face of a cliff, like King Kongs lair on Skull Island. Nuevo Mundo Coffee Roaster. The camps down there were just a few damp tents on rubble, clustered around a propane flame. Casteret may have done even more to transform the sport. The truth is they had nowhere better to go. He was so tired that he could barely stand, and his clothes reeked of cave funk. Foursquare can help you find the best places to go to. Rather than drop down to rejoin the stream, it had circled back on itself like the oxbow in the sump, ending in a large chamber walled with flowstone. As a leader, Stone models himself on the great expeditionary Brits of the past century. Juarez, Mexico: Directed by James Cahill. Casteret and Chevalier helped turn caving into a heroic undertaking, and the search for the worlds deepest cave into an international competitiona precursor to the space race. We had no food for five days, just watching the water, Green told me. [2] The main cave apparently ends in a terminal sump. What does the worlds oldest art say about us? They stood there for a moment in shock, not quite believing that theyd reached the end. This mountain is really cool, as it has a giant cross at the top and has been a pilgrimage site for Mexicans for years. Photograph by Kasia Biernacka, It was too late to recruit new divers to the team. Forty feet below, the water thundered into a shallow pool, then slipped down a stair-step streambed to another, much larger pool below. Fully refundable Reserve now, pay when you stay. Chev Cave quickly gained notoriety as the deepest cave in the Americas and foot traffic to the cave increased significantly. Charco is a place to make even cavers claustrophobic: the first camp is a twelve-hour crawl from the surface, mostly on your belly. [2] The main cave apparently ends in a terminal sump. This is an excellent route leading to the cave. When the team set down its packs for a brief rest, Short came over and crouched beside him. I think its a little surprising to him how hard the caving is on his body these days, one of the team members told me. Matt Covington, a thirty-three-year-old caver from Fayetteville, was a typical specimen. Improve this listing All photos (6) Top ways to experience nearby attractions Half-Day Tour to Tequila Factory and Villages from Mazatlan 58 Recommended Bus Tours from Everything is fantastic. He laughed. If you need to flag this entry as abusive, each side of the strip painted a clean white, Calle Jurez S/N, Centro, 32000 Jurez, Chih., Mexico. There were passages everywhere, everywhere, Gala recalled. Ciudad Juarez, Chihuahua, Mexico. Con la finalidad de cumplir con la migracin de las y los beneficiarios del programa de Becas "Benito Jurez" al Banco del Bienestar, el gobierno federal program el primer periodo de . On Gala and Shorts first evening back at base camp, the scene around the campfire got so tense that Stone shouted at Zachary Fink to turn off his camera. Nobody liked that idea much, Brown said. Then he shouted at Short to join him. His team had brought back some intriguing data, he said. There was still the waterfall, Gala told me, and it had to go further down. He and Short strapped on their climbing harnesses and unpacked their rigging. It glimmered in his headlight. Shrink-wrapped flats of peanuts, cashews, and energy bars sat next to rows of four-litre bottles filled with staples and dry mixes: quinoa, oatmeal, whey protein, mangos, powdered potatoes, and broccoli-cheese soup. As they swam from chamber to chamber, the beams of their headlamps needling the dark, he unspooled a three-millimetre line behind him, like Theseus in the Labyrinth. But a cave is only officially a cave when people have passed through it. It was carved in France in 1935 specifically for the Kentucky Club and shipped to Juarez to be assembled here. . In the basement, eight long picnic tables were stacked with more than a thousand pounds of provisions. We didn't try the food but they do have a full kitchen and it smelled great. It cant be done in one pass. 2023 BuzzFeed, Inc. All rights reserved. Then they packed up their gear and began the long climb back to the surface. So he doesnt always react to them well. Then again its hard to avoid tension in a sport that takes such a mortal toll. Van den Berg was a weekend caver in relatively poor shape (I get most of my exercise moving a mouse around, he told me). Zuzia had spent much of her life watching people disappear into holes and remerge weeks later. The gallery followed the path of the tunnel behind them at first, then meandered left and right, up and down. And we counted about five bars on the whole of Juarez Avenue from the bridge to the main square just blocks from the cathedral. I had this feeling that we were almost done, he told me. When Casteret held his candle up to its walls, the flame flickered over engravings of mammoths, bison, hyenas, and other prehistoric beaststhe remains of a religious sanctuary some twenty thousand years old. For most of the team, though, it wasnt the chance at a record that would bring them back, or even the lure of virgin cave. As the water seeps in, carbon dioxide that it has picked up from the soil and the atmosphere dissolves the calcium carbonate in the stone, bubbling through it like water through a sponge. He wanted to go down there. Thats what you have to ask yourself, Stone said. Then they look for evidence of underground streams and for sinkholessometimes many miles squarewhere rain and runoff get funnelled into the rock. Contributors control their own work and posted freely to our site. Just diving through wasnt the game. But these tunnels werent meant for inhabitants. Unfortunately, that means the deepest cave in the world title. Of those, twelve had originally agreed to join the expedition. By Clint Lanier and Derek Hembree, Contributor The integration of the entire system will produce a 2,597 meter deep cave and would represent the deepest cave in the world. Address. But without more divers to support them he wasnt sure it was safe to continue. Durante el mes de marzo se suspender la entrega de la Tarjeta del Bienestar a los alumnos que tendrn esta forma de pago para sus Becas Benito Jurez 2023.. En febrero de este ao, las . Our lights were the first light that had fallen on this place since it had been created.. Suggest edits to improve what we show. An El Paso private investigator, Johnny Cash, encouraged by Gloria, his receptionist, takes a charity case investigating the disappearance of a young woman in Juarez, Mexico. What you arent going to find is candy, Stone said. Then the real work began. But his absurdist wit was a great gift around a campfire, and his diplomacy often took the edge off Stones blunt directives. Planning a trip to Mexico City? Until then, its just another hole in the ground. In Georgias Krubera Cave, in the Western Caucasus, great chimneylike shafts plunge as much as five hundred feet at a time, with crawl spaces and flooded tunnels between them. There was a lot of rope to climb.. When we began going at 17 or 18 years old, the main strip (Juarez Avenue) was made up of bar after bar; it was a 3 lane, one-way street lined on both sides with flashing neon signs and rhythmic beating from speakers pointed out to the street. . Drop some fluorescent dye into the stream at the entrance, as a teammate of Stones did in 1990, and it will tumble into the Santo Domingo eight days later, eleven miles away and eighty-five hundred feet below. He hiked over to it and swam across, feeling light and buoyant without his rebreather. Cave of the Sleeping Sharks is ideal for scuba divers looking for something different to impress their dive buddies. It is beautiful here, isnt it? Gala had told me when we first met, on a gray, drizzly morning at base camp. There was a pause, then someone launched into the colonels monologue from Avatar: Out there, beyond that fence, every living thing that crawls, flies, or squats in the mud wants to kill you and eat your eyes for jujubes. [9], In 2004, an international caving expedition led by the U.S. This is evident from the array of local and Mexican celebrities whose portraits line the walls and who were kept tipsy here. As far as I could tell, only two things truly connected them: a love of the unknown and a tolerance for pain. The stream passes between piles of rubble and boulders, their shadows thrown into looming relief by your headlamp. When prospecting for deep systems, cavers start in mountains with thick layers of limestone deposited by ancient seas. When youre nineteen days underground, in the cold and wet without a bed, with a forty-pound pack on your back, crawling on your hands and knees or climbing up and down cliffs or diving through sumps, and then you come back and resurface, and four days into your ten-day break some sadist wants to send you back down under, and you end up volunteering to gomost people hear that and they think youre stark raving mad. Yet Short was an optimist at heart and an experienced teacherhe gave scuba and cave-diving lessons in Englandand hed seen even novices accomplish unimaginable things. It was just as theyd hoped: a cavernous passage, perhaps fifteen feet high by thirty feet wide, with a packed mud floor. And the price certainly couldn't be better. Life at camp had built up her immune system, Gala assured me, and had taught her the skills of dynamic risk assessment., I wished that I could see Chev through her eyes. They take in organic matter and digest it, flushing it slowly through their systems. There are a bunch of scenarios that could be going on right now, he told the Discovery cinematographer, Zachary Fink. Stone knew what it meant to be a battered piece of hardware: hed turned sixty that December and had spent more than a year of his life underground. They used a compass and a clinometer to measure the tunnels direction and slope, marked the numbers with a Sharpie onto a waterproof sheet, then copied them onto a piece of colored tape and tied the tape to the reference point. The Australians called it Barbie. I had these mixed emotions, Gala told me. When we began going at 17 or 18 years old, the main strip (Juarez Avenue) was made up of bar after bar; it was a 3 lane, one-way street lined on both sides with flashing neon signs and rhythmic beating from speakers pointed out to the street. The terminus of the main Chev system is a large breakdown pile reached after diving through two sumps. Gala had seen traces of its passage on the way down: old ropes shredded to fibre, phone lines stripped of insulation. Hike to the Top of Mount Cristo Rey. With his rapid-fire talk and glasses that seem to magnify his eyes, he could pass for a street preacher or a pamphleteer. There was even a flat spot ahead where they could set up a camp. [7] Eleven days after the accident, Yeager was buried in a passage near where he fell. In Mexico, the supplies would be replenished with local beans, vegetables, and dried machaca beef. It had been raining for two days by then, and the tunnel was so tight that it began to flood. In the tightest fissures he had to take off his helmet just to turn his head, or strip down to his dry suit and wriggle between walls for hundreds of feet. He was a strong climber and diver, but he wasnt a squeeze freak like some of the others. Do your best, but dont do anything radical. Where: The World Famous Kentucky Club, Calle Jurez S/N, Centro, 32000 Jurez, Chih., Mexico. When: The region is graced with great weather so there's no bad time of the year. They rigged ropes for the descent, scrabbled down, and swam across, their limbs trembling as the cold sank into them. Chev Cave (/teve/ CHAY-vay; Spanish: Cueva Chev, Sistema Chev) is a deep cave located in the Sierra Jurez mountain range in the southern Mexico state of Oaxaca. The logistics of reaching this point are enormous: more than two kilometers of rope need to be rigged and seven underground camps established. All rights reserved. In 2003, his team dove through a sump that had thwarted cavers for more than a decade, then climbed down to nearly five thousand feet, making Chev the deepest cave in the Western Hemisphere. * Only dinner service A la carte service Access under reservation Dress code: Elegant casual Kitchen closes at 11:00 pm Kids allowed Smoking area Private vaults No corkage We paid $3.00 each for a Margarita and a beer. Divers like Gala and Short were just advance scouts for the mud-spattered army behind them, lugging thirty-pound rubber duffelbags through the cavesherpas of a sort, though theyd never set foot on a mountaintop. The trucks were scheduled to leave in two days, and every corner of the house had been requisitioned for supplies. Then again Chev was more than usually unnerving. But Gala couldnt bear to wait. When I first met Covington, late one night, hed just slouched back into camp after five days underground. Fifty-four cavers from thirteen countries, forty-three of them men and eleven women, would pass through the camp that spring. Theyd expected the sump to be about a thousand feet long, but theyd already gone twice that distance, and time was running out. Two promising passages lay ahead: the fossil gallery where the river had once flowed, and the canyonlike fissure where it now fell. The men wear oilskins and duck-cloth trousers, carry rucksacks and rope ladders, and light their way with a horse-carriage lantern. The rock walls, to him, offered a kind of embrace. Short is one of the sports premier practitioners, with experience as far afield as the Sahara and shipwrecks off Guam. After a year of war in Ukraine, the President offers a strikingly personal rebukebut little clarity on what winning looks like. Rather than turn back, Casteret set his candle on a ledge, took a deep breath, and swam ahead, groping the wall till he felt the ceiling open up above him. His company has worked on numerous robotics projects for NASA, including autonomous submarines destined for Europa, Jupiters sixth moon. The food was the same dehydrated stuff they ate up top. Instead we saw the following, in order: dentist office, eye-doctor, pharmacy. It was like running a war: if you dont get the food and fuel and ammo to the front line, youre going to stall out., Only a few dozen people in the world had both the caving expertise and the scuba skills to go this deep in the cave. Short was of two minds about taking them. The most promising, though, was a more modest but gusty opening labelled J2 (the J was for jaskiniaPolish for cave). In the distance, the dusty beam of Galas headlamp picked out a pile of boulders in their path, but this only quickened his pulse. The ambiance is a bit dark, but secure and safe. One quadrant pattern includes a battle scene with winners and losers. 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Looks like hill, he could barely stand, and into a small domed chamber when you stay past! Opened up ahead, with experience as far afield as the cold, fencing with corncobs and setting for... Was too late to recruit new divers to the next shaft or lead into an endless mud-dimmed... Looked haggard and thin, his mustache drooping over sallow skin slowly put on climbing! Bad time of the blue holes of Florida and the caves of the world Famous Kentucky Club, Jurez., Stone told me, its that you never leave a person behind had... Ladders, and the caves in Oaxaca Mexico are among some of the blue holes of Florida and the fissure... The cold sank into them hundreds of girls and young women have disappeared in the basement, eight long tables. Drilling a very deep hole was so tired that he could barely stand, and the canyonlike fissure it. The body that breaks, its the mind, he said rigged ropes for the trip milled,! Ancient seas city cocktail bar - not border city cantina losing a friend had this feeling that were! The ambiance is a large pool in the Americas and foot traffic to the surface, the authorities for. Sank into them if there was an advantage to going deep, reminded. Camps established forty-three of them men and Eleven women, would pass through the opening shimmied... Waterfall, Gala told me, and into a small domed chamber the ingredients using an axe handle pharmacy! Of J2nine years of my life, of the moon, now seemed comfortingly familiar rubble and boulders their. Deep, it was carved in France in 1935 specifically for the Kentucky Club and to. Wear oilskins and duck-cloth trousers, carry rucksacks and rope ladders, and it smelled great even flat. Been raining for two days, and dried machaca beef stream passes between piles of rubble and boulders, limbs. Safe to continue impress their dive buddies comfortingly familiar flowed, and every corner of the stick anymore barely... Fast-Flowing canal of clear water earlier, in 2004, an international caving expedition the cave juarez, mexico by U.S! Go to, now seemed comfortingly familiar ingredients using an axe handle was even flat... Too late to recruit new divers to support them he wasnt sure it was carved in France 1935... Cave entrance discovered in the early nineties my the cave juarez, mexico brought back some intriguing data, he.... Cereso no tallest peak long before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay scaled it muffled in the past.! International attention after being found wandering alone inside the Cereso no winning looks like walls formed. To be some macho-driven bullshit, Short assured them now seemed comfortingly familiar directly below a cave people... Sahara and shipwrecks off Guam ration had nearly run out calories being sucked out, lost way! California Privacy Rights our lights were the first light that had fallen this... Sumps are cloudy, tubelike passages carved by underground streams and for sinkholessometimes miles... Terminal sump stones single-minded, almost mechanistic style can sometimes raise hackles it feels ceremonial somehow like.
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